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Vol. 29 (1)
2025



Artigos

“Enough of this fake war”: ecologies of value, workers and environmentalists in Southern Italy

Antonio Maria Pusceddu

This article mobilizes the ecologies of value as a conceptual framework to account for the conflicts, contradictions and dilemmas arousing from the experience of the contemporary socio-ecological crisis. Based on ethnographic fieldwork in Brindisi,

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Artigos

“Preventing them from being adrift”: challenges for professional practice in the Argentinean mental health system for children and adolescents

Axel Levin

This ethnographic article addresses the difficulties, practices, and strategies of the professionals of the only Argentine hospital fully specialized in the treatment of mental health problems of children and adolescents. More specifically, it

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Artigos

Making Children: an iconography of the ibejadas in the centers, religious article shops, and factories of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Morena Freitas

The ibejadas are childlike entities that, alongside the caboclos, pretos-velhos, exus, and pombagiras, inhabit the umbanda pantheon. In religious centers, these entities manifest through colorful images, joyful sung chants and an abundance of sweets

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Artigos

To migrate and to belong: intimacy, ecclesiastical absence, and playful competition in the Aymara Anata-Carnival of Chiapa (Chile)

Pablo Mardones

The article analyzes the Anata-Carnival festivity celebrated in the Andean town of Chiapa in the Tarapacá Region, Great North of Chile. I suggest that this celebration constitutes one of the main events that promote the reproduction of feelings of

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Artigos

Hauntology and nostalgia in the touristed landscapes of Sarajevo

Marta Roriz

Drawing on anthropological and ethnographic developments in the study of urban tourism, this essay offers a description of Sarajevo’s tourist landscapes from the perspective of an ethnographic tourist, detailing how time is inscribed in the

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Memory

David J. Webster in Mozambique: minimal epistolary (1971-1979)

Lorenzo Macagno

The article comments on, contextualizes and transcribes the epistolary exchange between social anthropologist David J. Webster (1945-1989) and ethnologist and Portuguese colonial official António Rita-Ferreira (1922-2014) between 1971 and 1979.

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Dossier ‘Gender and Care in the Cape Verdean transnational experience’

Género e cuidados na experiência transnacional cabo-verdiana: introdução

Luzia Oca González, Fernando Barbosa Rodrigues and Iria Vázquez Silva

Neste dossiê sobre o género e os cuidados na comunidade transnacional cabo-verdiana, as leitoras e leitores encontrarão os resultados de diferentes etnografias feitas tanto em Cabo Verde como nos países de destino da sua diáspora no sul da

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Dossier ‘Gender and Care in the Cape Verdean transnational experience’

“Vizinhu ta trocadu pratu ku kada casa”… Caring to avoid hunger in Brianda, Santiago Island, Cape Verde

Fernando Barbosa Rodrigues

Taking the ethnographic field as a starting point – the interior of the island of Santiago in the Republic of Cabo Verde – and basing on participant observation and the collection of testimonies from the local inhabitants of Brianda, this

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Dossier ‘Gender and Care in the Cape Verdean transnational experience’

“Eu já aguentei muita gente nessa vida”: about care, gender, and generation in Cape Verdian families

Andréa Lobo and André Omisilê Justino

This article reflects on the care category when crossed by the dynamics of gender and generation in Cape Verde. The act of caring is of fundamental importance for family dynamics in this society, which is marked by mobilities of multiple orders –

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Dossier ‘Gender and Care in the Cape Verdean transnational experience’

Global care chains in Cape Verdean migrations: women who stay so that others can migrate

Luzia Oca González and Iria Vázquez Silva

This article is based on fieldwork conducted with women of four generations, belonging to five families living in the locality of Burela (Galicia) and their domestic groups originating from the island of Santiago. We present three ethnographic

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Dossier ‘Gender and Care in the Cape Verdean transnational experience’

The difficult balance between work and life: care arrangements in three generations of Cape Verdean migrants

Keina Espiñeira González, Belén Fernández-Suárez and Antía Pérez-Caramés

The reconciliation of the personal, work and family spheres of migrants is an emerging issue in migration studies, with concepts such as the transnational family and global care chains. In this contribution we analyse the strategies deployed by

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Debate

Universal foreigners: the ‘ontological turn’ considered from a phenomenological perspective

Filipe Verde

This article questions the consistency, reasonableness, and fruitfulness of the methodological proposals and idea of anthropological knowledge of the “ontological turn” in anthropology. Taking as its starting point the book manifesto produced by

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Debate

Universos estrangeiros: ainda a polêmica virada ontológica na antropologia

Rogério Brittes W. Pires

O artigo “Estrangeiros universais”, de Filipe Verde, apresenta uma crítica ao que chama de “viragem ontológica” na antropologia, tomando o livro The Ontological Turn, de Holbraad e Pedersen (2017), como ponto de partida (2025a: 252).1 O

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Debate

Resposta a Rogério Pires

Filipe Verde

Se há evidência que a antropologia sempre reconheceu é a de que o meio em que somos inculturados molda de forma decisiva a nossa compreensão do mundo e de nós mesmos. Isso é assim para a própria antropologia e, portanto, ser antropólogo é

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Debate

Da ontologia da fenomenologia na antropologia: ensaio de resposta

Rogério Brittes W. Pires

Um erro do construtivismo clássico é postular que verdades alheias seriam construídas socialmente, mas as do próprio enunciador não. Que minha visão de mundo, do fazer antropológico e da ciência sejam moldadas por meu ambiente – em

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Note on the cover

Note on the cover

Pedro Calapez

© Pedro Calapez. 2023. (Pormenor) Díptico B; Técnica e Suporte: Acrílico sobre tela colada em MDF e estrutura em madeira. Dimensões: 192 x 120 x 4 cm. Imagem gentilmente cedidas pelo autor. Créditos fotográficos: MPPC / Pedro

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Vol. 28 (3)
2024



Articles

Contingency conveniences: anticipation as a temporal practice of SEF inspectors at the Portuguese airport border

Mafalda Carapeto

This article follows from ethnographic work conducted at an airport in Portugal, where, from June 2021 to April 2022, I observed the daily routines of the inspectors of the Portuguese Immigration and Borders Service (SEF) across various groups,

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Articles

Cotidiano e trajetórias vitais situadas de mulheres idosas (AMBA, província de Buenos Aires, Argentina): a incidência da pandemia de Covid-19

Ana Silvia Valero, María Gabriela Morgante y Julián Cueto

Este trabalho pretende dar conta das interseções entre diferentes aspetos da vida quotidiana e das trajetórias de vida das pessoas idosas num espaço de bairro e a incidência da pandemia de Covid-19. Baseia-se no desenvolvimento sustentado,

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Articles

The reconfigurations of culture jamming in the digital environment: the case of anti-consumerism memes in the #antiblackfriday campaign (Brazil)

Liliane Moreira Ramos

In this article, I discuss the reconfigurations of the phenomenon known as culture jamming, characteristic of the communicative dimension of political consumption, based on the appropriation of Internet memes as a tool to criticize consumption.

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Articles

Informal economies in Bairro Alto (Lisbon): the nocturnal tourist city explained through a street dealer’s life story

Jordi Nofre

The historical neighbourhood of Bairro Alto is the city’s most iconic nightlife destination, especially for tourists visiting Lisbon (Portugal). The expansion of commercial nightlife in this area has been accompanied by the increasing presence of

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Articles

A pame theory of force: the case of the xi'iui of the Sierra Gorda of Querétaro, Mexico

Imelda Aguirre Mendoza

This text analyzes the term of force (mana’ap) as a native concept formulated by the pames (xi’iui) of the Sierra Gorda de Querétaro. This is related to aspects such as blood, food, cold, hot, air and their effects on the body. It is observed

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Articles

Convergences and bifurcations in the biographies and autobiographies of indigenous intellectuals from Mexico and Brazil

Mariana da Costa Aguiar Petroni e Gabriel K. Kruell

In this article we present an exercise of reflection on the challenges involved in writing and studying the biographies and autobiographies of indigenous intellectuals in different geographical, historical and political scenarios: Mexico and Brazil,

[+]


Articles

The history through sacrifice and predation: tikmũ,ũn existential territory at the colonial crossroads

Douglas Ferreira Gadelha Campelo

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Articles

To grow up: affectionate imitation in the relations of Capuxu children with their animals

Emilene Leite de Sousa e Antonella Maria Imperatriz Tassinari

This paper analyzes the experiences of Capuxu children with the animals they interact with daily, looking for un understanding about how children’s relationships with these companion species cross the Capuxu sociality, including the onomastic

[+]


Articles

Biological science laboratories as practices: an ethnographic reading of plant anatomy at a University in the Caatinga (Bahia, Brazil)

Elizeu Pinheiro da Cruz e Iara Maria de Almeida Souza

Anchored in notes elaborated in a multispecies ethnography, this text formulates a reading of biological science laboratories as situating practices of human and non-human actors. For this, the authors bring up plants from/in the caatinga,

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Interdisciplinarities

Sensitive maps in abandoned territories of railway stations on the Brazil-Uruguay border

Vanessa Forneck e Eduardo Rocha

The research maps and investigates the territories created by the abandonment of railway stations, a process that has been accentuated since the 1980s, in the twin cities of Jaguarão-Rio Branco and Santana do Livramento-Rivera, on the

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Multimodal Alt

A graphic ethnography as a form of affection and memory: afflictions, spirits, and healing processes in Zion churches in Maputo

Giulia Cavallo

In 2016, three years after completing my Ph.D., I embarked on my first attempt to translate my ethnographic research conducted in Maputo, among the Zion communities, into a graphic language. Through a series of single illustrations, I aimed to

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Recursivities

Desanthropic ethnography: between apocryphal stories of water, deep dichotomies and liquid dwellings

Alejandro Vázquez Estrada e Eva Fernández

In this text we address the possibility of deconstructing the relationships – that have water as a resource available to humans – that have ordered some dichotomies such as anthropos-nature, establishing that there are methodologies, theories

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Argument

Anthropology of art, Anthropology – history, dilemmas, possibilities

Filipe Verde

In this essay, I first aim to pinpoint the factors that have historically marginalized art within anthropological thought. I propose that this marginalization stems from two main influences: the aesthetic conception of art and the metaphysical

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Reviews

Um jovem caçador de lixo na Mafalala, nas décadas de 1960 e 1970

Diogo Ramada Curto

Celso Mussane (1957-) é um pastor evangélico moçambicano. Licenciou-se na Suécia (1994) e tirou o curso superior de Teologia Bíblica na Pontifícia Universidade Católica do Paraná, em Londrina no Brasil (2018). Entre 2019 e 2020, publicou

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Reviews

Alberto Corsín Jiménez y Adolfo Estalella, Free Culture and the City: Hackers, Commoners, and Neighbors in Madrid, 1997-2017

Francisco Martínez

Este libro tiene tres dimensiones analíticas: primero, es una etnografía del movimiento de cultura libre en Madrid. Segundo, es un estudio histórico sobre la traducción de lo digital a lo urbano, favoreciendo una nueva manera de posicionarse en

[+]

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Iscte-Instituto Universitário de Lisboa
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Av. Forças Armadas, 40 1649-026 Lisboa, Portugal

(+351) 210 464 057
etnografica@cria.org.pt

Financiado pela FCT, I. P. (UIDB/04038/2020 e UIDP/04038/2020)

© 2025 Revista Etnográfica

Magazine

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Iscte-Instituto Universitário de Lisboa
Edifício 4 - Iscte_Conhecimento e Inovação, Sala B1.130 
Av. Forças Armadas, 40 1649-026 Lisboa, Portugal

(+351) 210 464 057
etnografica@cria.org.pt

Financiado pela FCT, I. P. (UIDB/04038/2020 e UIDP/04038/2020)

© 2025 Revista Etnográfica

Multimodal Alt

Seeing like a routier: routiers’ borderscapes between Southern Europe and West Africa

Pedro Figueiredo Neto and Ricardo Falcão

22.11.2023

Routier is the self-designation employed by Senegalese men driving decades-old vehicles overloaded with mostly second-hand items from Southern Europe to be sold in West Africa. By seeing like a routier, the piece seeks to feed an on-going debate not only on how to depict borders writ large but also on how certain groups of people embody, see and are seen by contemporary borders.

 

Routier é a auto-designação utilizada por homens senegaleses que conduzem veículos com várias décadas de idade, sobrecarregados com artigos, na sua maioria em segunda mão, provenientes do Sul da Europa para serem vendidos na África Ocidental. Ao propor “ver como” um routier, interrogam-se as representações de uma multiplicidade de fronteiras, mas também sobre o modo como certos grupos de pessoas encarnam, vêem e são vistos pelas fronteiras contemporâneas.
Routier es la autodenominación utilizada por los hombres senegaleses que conducen vehículos de varias décadas de antigüedad, sobrecargados con mercancías, en su mayoría de segunda mano, procedentes del sur de Europa para venderlas en África Occidental. Al proponer "ver como" un routier, cuestionamos las representaciones de una multiplicidad de fronteras, pero también cómo ciertos grupos de personas encarnan, ven y son vistos por las fronteras contemporáneas.
Routier est l'auto-désignation utilisée par les hommes sénégalais qui conduisent des véhicules vieux de plusieurs dizaines d'années, surchargés de marchandises pour la plupart d'occasion en provenance d'Europe du Sud et destinées à être vendues en Afrique de l'Ouest. En proposant de "voir comme" un routier, ce sont les représentations d'une multiplicité de frontières qui sont interrogées, mais aussi la manière dont certains groupes de personnes incarnent, voient et sont vus par les frontières contemporaines.
This section publishes versions of original contributions that experiment with multimodality and seeks to promote visual formats, such as photography, drawing, graphics and audiovisuals, or sound incorporated into ethnographic reflection.

Read the full version of this contribution in Etnográfica journal.


Visual approaches have not been systematically employed in the study of contemporary borders despite their affordances in bringing to the fore individual perspectives and experiences (Kudžmaité and Pauwels 2020; Ball 2014). Drawing on the concept of borderscapes, whose plasticity and inherent aesthetic nature stimulates an exploration of diverse border universes (dell’Agnese and Szary 2015), this visual essay interrogates routiers’ border(ing) enactments and contingent meanings.[1]


Routier is the self-designation employed by Senegalese men driving heavily laden, aging vehicles from Europe into Africa. This perilous journey takes them through Morocco, the Western Sahara occupied territories, Mauritania, and finally to their destination in Senegal. Some even beyond. The vehicles used by routiers are eventually sold and integrated into regional transportation systems. In Senegal, popular models include the Peugeot 504/505, older versions of the Renault Trafic, Volkswagen Golf, and Toyota Hiace. During their journey and upon arrival, routiers deliver money remittances and personal belongings. They also barter and trade diverse goods, mostly second-hand objects, some of which in need of repair: clothing, household appliances, toys, spare parts, rice, cosmetics. Not only do the vehicles they travel in regain value as they move south, but even items that are considered obsolete or even waste in Europe gradually become valuable (Neto and Falcão 2022).


Below, we present ten captioned images that depict and explore the borderscapes of routiers as they perceive, imagine, and experience the multitude of borders in which their livelihoods are embedded. Selected still images stem from audiovisual materials collected between 2017 and 2019 during ethnographic fieldwork and the filming of a documentary among Senegalese routiers.[2] Our research included extensive fieldwork in Lisbon and Dakar, as well as two ten-day journeys from Portugal to Senegal, travelling in late 1980s Peugeots 504s with the same seasoned routier: Mbaye Sow, who is now 63 years old. However, since pandemic restrictions were introduced in early 2020, most of this activity has disappeared, and the actors who once participated in it have either moved elsewhere or had to find other means of making a living. This is not to say that the flow of goods came to a halt, only that it has found other trajectories, from individual carriage by plane or bus to container shipping.


The result is a constellation of more or less singular perspectives that feed an on-going debate not only on how to visually represent borders writ large (Kudžmaitė and Pauwels 2020), but also on how certain groups of people embody (Mbembe 2019; Agier 2016), see and are seen by those very borders (Ball 2014; M’Charek 2020; Plájás, M’Charek and Baar 2019). Ultimately, our exploration is an invitation for the reader/viewer to embark on a journey of discovery.



A SENEGALESE ENCLAVE




Source: © Pedro F. Neto 2019.


The Senegalese workshops in Reboleira, a parish of Amadora in the outskirts of Lisbon, are located along a short segment of a former military road. In the mid-2000s, following the violent clearance of an existing informal neighbourhood, routiers seized the opportunity to set up their open-air car workshops in the area.


BORDER LEXICON



Source: © Pedro F. Neto 2017


This image depicts the road entering Rosal de la Frontera, located approximately 4 km away from the official border between Portugal and Spain. The only elements that acknowledge the existence of an international border are the road signposting and the border-lexicon applied to localities. Border checkpoints were dismantled in the mid-1990s following the implementation of the Schengen Agreement, and nowadays, there is virtually no control or surveillance, at least at the gateways and moments of crossing well identified by routiers. For them, this is essentially an economic frontier, which they master well, strategically juggling with the differential cost of things, particularly in terms of fuel, which is more affordable on the Spanish side.


ACROSS THE STRAIGHT



Source: © Pedro F. Neto 2017.


Some 11.000 nautical miles (20 km) separate the ports of Algeciras (Spain) from Tanger Med (Morocco). (…) For routiers, crossing this border means that while obstacles may not suddenly disappear upon entering “Africa”, things can be more easily managed, and the relative value of the vehicles and goods carried automatically increases.



MNEMONIC BORDER



Source: © Pedro F. Neto 2017.


The unknown and occult, fear, and landscape elements but also mountain ranges, rivers, forests, have represented – and still represent – some of the foundational and empirical arguments at the origin of many border demarcations and imaginaries throughout history.



INVISIBLE LINES



Source: © Pedro F. Neto 2019.


In the near horizon lies the borderline between Morocco and Western Sahara, a former Spanish colony known for its rich fishing and phosphate resources. That rectilinear imaginary line, which we cannot see but only grasp through other elements, shall remain invisible inasmuch Moroccan sovereignty is not called into question. Subtler aspects inform about the status and plight of this territory. As routiers move into Western Sahara occupied territories’, urban settlements gradually fade away, and the distances in between grow larger.



BORDER SOUNSCAPES


Source: © Ricardo Falcão 2022


At the Morocco-Guerguerat strip border post, a huge, ten-meter tall scanner analyses vehicles. (…)


The straight horizontal line of the spectrogram (first 53 seconds) depicts the sound emanating from the scanner: a humming noise mixed with a warning siren that is repeated in short cycles. The humming low noise is interrupted (final seconds) by a hissing sound from the release of a truck’s air brake, now ready to move forward. Indifferent to the geopolitical limit, birds fly and sing continuously across the arid and littered landscape.



“KANDAHAR”



Source: © Pedro F. Neto 2017.


A cemetery of vehicles grows by the day in the roughly 5 km of the Guerguerat buffer zone between Morocco and Mauritania border posts.



TRAVELLING BORDER



Source: © Pedro F. Neto 2019.


The road is the routiers’ own country. Beyond the roadside lies the unknown, an immense uncharted territory.



BORDER TWINS



Source: © Pedro F. Neto 2019.


Between the twin border towns of Rosso-Mauritania and Rosso-Senegal, a smoky barge ferries cars, trucks, people and goods across the river Senegal. Locals cross freely without any form of control. This sudden in-betweenness of the river as a border provides an unique opportunity to capture images.



THE BORDER WITHIN



Source: © Pedro F. Neto 2017.


Mbaye Sow negotiated for extra time to meet a police officer responsible for overseeing the convoy of routiers travelling from Rosso-Senegal to Gambia. (…) It is worth noting that according to Senegalese law, vehicles older than eight years are not allowed to remain but only to traverse the country. However, this does not prevent the routiers’ networks from finding alternative ways to re-enter Senegal.


Despite their resilience, routiers constantly feel like foreigners no matter where they go. (…) Be it in Europe or in West Africa, routiers embody the frontier (Mbembe 2019; Agier 2016; Konrad 2015), a shifting, mobile frontier that remains within them.



THE MISSING PICTURE

In early 2020, the routier activity came to a halt due to the restrictions imposed by the Covid-19 pandemic, which led to the closure of international borders. Since then, most routiers have sought alternative sources of income in Europe or Senegal. Mbaye Sow, for instance, first migrated to France to work as a fruit picker, then moved on to Germany to work in an Amazon sorting facility, before eventually returning to Portugal to work on a construction site in Lisbon.


Although land borders have since reopened, most of the routiers we met did not return to Reboleira.

Pedro Figueiredo Neto e Ricardo Falcão




NETO, Pedro Figueiredo (pedrofneto@ics.ulisboa.pt) – ICS-ULisboa, Portugal. Orcid: https://orcid.org/0000-0001-7687-7202 
FALCÃO, Ricardo (ricfal@gmail.com) – CEI-IUL, Portugal. Orcid: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-7419-865X

Para citar esta versão:

Pedro Figueiredo Neto e Ricardo Falcão, «Seeing like a routier: routiers’ borderscapes between Southern Europe and West Africa», Etnográfica Ágora-Multimodal Alt [Online], 2023, posto online no dia 10 novembro 2023.
URL: https://etnografica.cria.org.pt/ptcms/multimodal-section-audiovisual/175



REFERENCES


AGIER, Michel, 2016, Borderlands: Towards an Anthropology of the Cosmopolitan Condition. London: Polity Press.
DELL’AGNESE, Elena, and Anne-Laure A. SZARY, 2015, “Borderscapes: from border landscapes to border aesthetics”, Geopolitics, 20 (1): 4-13. DOI: 10.1080/14650045.2015.1014284.
KONRAD, Victor, 2015. “Toward a theory of borders in motion”, Journal of Borderland Studies, 30 (1): 1-1 DOI: 10.1080/08865655.2015.1008387.
KUDŽMAITĖ, Gintaré, and Luc PAUWELS, 2020, “Researching visual manifestations of border spaces and experiences: conceptual and methodological perspectives”, Geopolitics, 27 (1): 260-291. DOI: 10.1080/14650045.2020.1749838.
MBEMBE, Achile, 2019, “Bodies as borders”, From the European South, 4: 5-18. Available at: < http://europeansouth.postcolonialitalia.it > (last consulted October 2023).
M’CHAREK, Amade, 2020, “Tentacular faces: race and the return of the phenotype in forensic identification”, American Anthropologist, 122 (2): 369-380.
NETO, Pedro F., and Ricardo FALCÃO, 2022, “Routiers’ transformational trajectories of waste, from Portugal to Senegal”, in Giulia Daniele, Manuel J. Ramos and Pedro F. Neto (eds.), Border Crossings In and Out of Europe, 87-105. Available at: < https://cei.iscte-iul.pt/en/publicacao/2022-border-crossings-in-and-out-of-europe/ > (last consulted October 2023).
PLÁJÁS, Ildikó Z., Aamade M’CHAREK, and Huub van BAAR, 2019, “Knowing ‘the Roma’: visual technologies of sorting populations and the policing of mobility in Europe”, Environment and Planning D: Society and Space, 37 (4): 589-605. DOI: 10.1177/0263775819837291.


[1] Our thanks to Mbaye Sow, his family, and all the (infrastructure of) people in Portugal, Morocco and Senegal that made this work possible. This work was supported by the Instituto do Cinema e Audiovisual (ICA, I. P.), and Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia (FCT) under the contract: 2021.03558.CEECIND/CP1696/CT0002.
[2] Yoon (2021, 84 min., dir. Pedro Figueiredo Neto and Ricardo Falcão; produced by Sopro Filmes).

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(+351) 210 464 057
etnografica@cria.org.pt

Financiado pela FCT, I. P. (UIDB/04038/2020 e UIDP/04038/2020)

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(+351) 210 464 057
etnografica@cria.org.pt

Financiado pela FCT, I. P. (UIDB/04038/2020 e UIDP/04038/2020)

© 2025 Revista Etnográfica